The History

In 1769, Spanish explorer Gaspar de Portola summited the Santa Lucia Mountains near Jolon, after pushing a worn-out, footsore band of soldiers and Fransican Padres forward in an effort to reach Monterey Bay. From the top, the vastness of the Salinas River valley in the distance enticed them to keep going. The expedition descended and made their way into the Valley, camping near what is now King City.

Breaking camp, they continued north, thinking they had missed Monterey Bay, marching as far as the hills overlooking San Francisco Bay. Portola turned the group around, heading back to San Diego, regrouping there for a subsequent land expedition that did, indeed, take him to the shores of Monterey Bay where he reunited with Father Junipero Serra, the father of California’s 21-mission network.

From San Diego to Sonoma, Father Serra established this network to convert non-Christians. Although his efforts had disastrous consequences for the native peoples, the Spanish influence is evident throughout California — in our architecture, food, language and traditions.

Follow the Bells

One of the most iconic representative symbols of the Spanish padres’ influence are the Mission Bell Markers along the historic El Camino Real, which translates to The Royal Road or King’s Highway. This 700-mile historic trail connects 21 missions, food presidios and several pueblos. It follows the route forged by that first expedition by Portola’s in 1769.

Mission settlements were built, for the most part, within a day’s horseback ride of each other for ease of overland traveling. The mellow beauty of today’s missions belie the fact that many fell into a terrible state of disrepair as Spanish influence waned during the time of Mexican secularization in the 1800s. In the early 20th century, thanks to the efforts of numerous foundations and nonprofit organizations, as well as communities surrounding these historic landmarks, all have been restored and are open to the public. Two of the most distinctive are found here in south county.

Valley of the Oaks

In the oak-mantled San Antonio Valley, about as far south in Monterey County as you can get, you’ll find Mission San Antonio de Padua, named for St. Anthony of Padua, the patron saint of lost articles. What’s not lost here is history. This valley is much as it was when both Portola and fellow explorer, Juan Bautista de Anza, camped here on their separate expeditions. The historic viewshed has, also, remained virtually unchanged, due to the Mission’s remoteness.

It is the third mission in the chain and one of nine founded by Serra. Its peaceful setting allowed the Padres, assisted by hundreds of local Salinan Indians, to work unencumbered by outside influences, creating one of the largest mission sites in the network. Remnants of the region’s first irrigation system, a grist mill, cemetery and footprints of outbuildings are all visible. The Chapel is open, as is a museum area documenting early California life.

A Place of Solitude

When Portola first came upon the location where Mission Nuestra Senora de la Soledad was originally built, it was the site of Chuttusgelis, an Esselen Village. The Spaniards, not understanding the native language, thought the Esselen called the spot “soledad,” the Spanish word for solitude. It was an apt description. The isolation and loneliness here was debilitating for the Padres and native inhabitants.

Coupled with the flooding of the Salinas River that washed away many of the buildings, rebuilt three times, the harshness of life at this remote spot, halfway between San Antonio and Carmel Mission, was crippling.

It crumbled into a state of disrepair and was purchased by Feliciano Soberanes, a descendent of Jose Maria Soberanes who accompanied Portola on his first journey to the area. The valley lands that surround the Mission, no longer home to cows and sheep roaming the grasslands, have been replaced by numerous row crops that now define the Salinas Valley.

Restoration of this, the thirteenth Mission, began in the 1950s and today the Chapel and Padres living wing are open to visitors.